Srinagar —the City of rich Heritage

TANVEEN KAWOOSA
The story of Srinagar can be told as a narrative of old world charm with its extensive network of narrow streets, winding lanes and by lanes opening out to the river, canals and lakes. Srinagar definitely contributes to make Kashmir an incredible place of many historic and architectural landmarks comprising of residences, Mosques, shrines nestled within the confines of its streets, ghats and river front. The Journey in to the old city is to experience a scene that seems ancient and timeless.
The city has been praised for its vernacular architecture in which one can see the art of most exquisite variety. This unique feature of the living city has attracted steady stream of visitors, connoisseurs of art and culture across the globe. The architecture of Srinagar has Chinese, Greek, Central Asian and Persian influences and is said to be unique combination of foreign and indigenous work of art.
Ironically human intervention and vicissitudes of time has resulted in the distortion of its historic character. Now the city has become focus of world attention as it has joined the rank of 100 most endangered heritage sites in the world.
The heritage zone comprising a sequence of heritage sites extending from the Jhelum Riverfront, portions of the city areas connecting to the Rainawari, the Mughal city of Nagaar Nagar on the banks of Dal lake and historic Mughal gardens have found a place in the watch list of 100 most endangered sites across the world for 2008 by Newyork based World Monument Fund.
Today what may look like decrepit ruins are on closer inspection the remnants of some wonderful monuments and the buildings of the past? These cultural marvels and priceless assets have suffered years of neglect and are dying a slow death owing to widespread devastation and vandalism on an unprecedented scale.
A visit to one time beautiful Khanqah built by   Dara Shukoh in the heart of Srinagar city (Zaina Kadal) presents a horrible picture. One can see the crows perching on it ruins and a dog scavenging near a fallen turret. The Khanqah was a seat of intellectual and religious pursuits. The famous poet and Intellectual Mullah Musin Fan was buried in the midst of the courtyard of the Khanqah. The ruins are facing danger of disappearance with lot of dampness all along the wall.
The splendour of the city which although has lost in oblivion for the posterity is beautifully and hauntingly preserved in the memories of elders.
“The city in our time was lively and vibrant’ says 95 years old Hajji Ghulam Hassan whose wood carving skills has added glory to royal apartments and ordinary houses alike.
“The builders in the past excelled in a style wherein various elements and materials which suited the climate, lifestyle and social requirements were integrated together, “he added.
Ironically, the journey of the city in to modern times reflects the progressive lack of sensitivity to its rich heritage. The city has witnessed massive demolition of traditional houses, mosques, picturesque commercial spines. Architectural elements of the new structures have made clean departure from tradition and history. Moreover in absence of any protection, this urban phenomenon of demolition has resulted in the great loss of city’s built heritage. In Kashmir today, architecture is no longer seriously considered by planners as an instrument for the structuring of the urban landscape. A lot more absence of legal framework coupled with ill planned redevelopmental schemes, in appropriate interventions has posed threat to city’s historic built fabric.
The height of irony is that the city’s master plan and other development plans from time to time initiated by the government in the region have ignored the issue of conserving this heritage. This can be exemplified by the closure of the serpentine cutlet of the Dal Lake, the Nalla mar which used to flow through the heart of Srinagar city. The City is loosing its historic character at a very fast pace. Of late campaign for conservation of traditional architecture has gained importance in the city.
INTACH, J&K chapter (Indian National Trust for Art and Culture) is the only organization which has campaigned the cause of salvaging the rich legacy of the city. The chapter has conducted a comprehensive listing of the Srinagar covering various typologies of the natural and manmade heritage. A 14th century mosque Ali Masjid is being presently restored by INTACH in collaboration with the department of tourism. The organization made tireless efforts to include Srinagar in the WMF watch list. This initiative can be seen as an opportunity to open new vistas of development for the city. Nevertheless, the onus lies on the citizens and the state government to act swiftly and make positive efforts to seize the opportunity. There is urgent need to restore the pristine glory of the city that has given distinct identity to Kashmir.